[MassHistPres] mildew/mold in antique home
Garrett Laws
copperandslate at gmail.com
Thu Jan 31 10:02:21 EST 2013
Linda,
1) we do a VERY small amount of work on the cape.
2) Keeping the interior dry is crucial!
3) Is the house going to be occupied shortly? If not, try to get it
breathing and dried out (by mother nature) in the spring. If yes then get
the power running and buy some de-humidifiers to get the process started.
4) You should obviously hold off on insulation until the house has dried
out and there is no longer a moisture issue. Additionally, it's a really
good idea to think about what will happen over the long term for the house
and my feeling is that foam insulation is more likely to trap water (from
leaks) than dense pack cellulose. BUT, you really need to have someone look
at the house as a whole to determine what the determine all of the pieces
to the puzzle. After all I can only guess how many dozens times that house
(at 193 years old!) has dried out after water has gotten into the interior
envelope!
Basically, the mold and mildew need something to keep it alive and taking
that away will start you down the right road.
Garrett Laws
Copper & Slate
On Wednesday, January 30, 2013, Linda Miner wrote:
> Can anyone offer some info on 1) identification of mildew/mold in an 1820s
> attic, and 2) proper remediation and insulation? The house has been vacant
> for about 6 years. Other than the attic, and being closed up through 6
> winters and summers, the structure itself is in good shape. The property
> is located on the Cape. Any thoughts/ resources would be appreciated.
> I've read many warnings of spray foam insulation which has been widely
> suggested as part of the solution, but it seems counterintuitive to
> restoring an antique home. Thanks, Linda.
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--
Cheers,
Garrett
The Copper & Slate Company, Inc.
Fine Roofing and Exterior Finish Carpentry
238B Calvary Street,
Waltham, MA 02453
(781) 893-1916
Work we do:
http://picasaweb.google.com/copperandslate
Where we've worked over the years:
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