[MassHistPres] Fwd: water sealant / primer

Tue Aug 9 11:40:33 EDT 2011

I think I have missed several of the emails in this chain, so please bear  
with me if I ask a question that has already been answered.

Some people recommend using a two-part liquid epoxy to strength wood  
fibers.  Is the Abatron product Liquid Wood acceptable?  And if this  products is 
used, is there a need to then apply the blopentine?

Earl Taylor
Dorchester Historical Society

In a message dated 8/8/2011 10:26:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
djd184 at verizon.net writes:

I spend  many an hour shining the Walnut stock of my .30-06 Springfield 
with that stuff  when I was on the ROTC drill team.  You could see your face in 
it.     

it's good for wood gutters too -- altho I've long since given up trying  to 
make them shiny.  

What brand of oil paint do you recommend?  Has anything actually  survived 
the Calif. regulations?

Dennis De Witt

On Aug 8, 2011, at 8:06 PM, heartwood restoration wrote:

thanks for sharing, garrett...excellent  topic!

we apply a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine  to the entire 
window sash once the paint has been removed...it is one of the  most 
satisfying tasks to introduce this oil to old dried wood especially the  end 
grain...i swear the wood is grateful for the much needed 'drink'...we  have not yet 
registered the name 'blopentine' but that's what we call it  around the 
shop...

most blo found in hardware and paint stores is treated  with metals such as 
cobalt to acheive the thinning/drying process for  raw linseed oil rather 
than heating it....i have found a gentleman in  trumansburg, new york who 
cleans and heats raw linseed to make the old  traditional 'boiled' linseed oil 
_http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/_ 
(http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/)  ...i have found two outfits that  sell clear, clean balsam turpentine 
in PLASTIC containers..._http://www.tarsmell.com/turpentine.html_ 
(http://www.tarsmell.com/turpentine.html)  
and_http://www.recochem.com/us/index.php/products/solvents/paint_thinner/item/pure_gum_turpentine_ 
(http://www.recochem.com/us/index.php/products/solvents/paint_thinner/item/pure_gum_turpentine) 
 distributor  in toledo, ohio) ...metals tend to deteriorate turpentine and 
the plastic  containers are recyleable...

boiled linseed oil conditions and consolidates old wood  and offers some 
water repellancy...turpentine has mildewcide and fungicide  properties and, at 
one time, was a popular household topical remedy...we use  a penetrating 
oil primer and prefer oil paints to latex--just not ready to  make a wholesale 
switch to waterbased finishes!!

thanks again...
....jade
heartwood window  restoration

----- Original Message -----
From: _Garrett Laws_ (mailto:copperandslate at gmail.com) 
To: _masshistpres at cs.umb.edu_ (mailto:masshistpres at cs.umb.edu) 
Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 11:14  AM
Subject: [MassHistPres] Fwd: water sealant  / primer

Attached is a recommendation for a "water repellant  preservative" I 
received from a client in Brookline, MA. The National Park  Service is supposedly 
where he discovered it. 

Trim on the exterior of  his house looks NEW (although it is 100+yrs old) 
after this product, a  good primer and then good paint were applied six years 
ago. 

Garrett

----------  Forwarded message ----------
Date: Monday, June 20, 2011
Subject:  water sealant / primer
To: Garrett Laws <_copperandslate at gmail.com_ 
(mailto:copperandslate at gmail.com) >

HI  Garrett,

Water repellent preservative (WRP) undercoating seems to  have the best 
percentage improvement on woods such as fir or pine that  don't necessarily 
take paint very well.  Apparently lots of window  mfrs pretreat their products 
this way.

Here is a link on Amazon to  the product I use.  It is a water repellent 
preservative that is  formulated to be covered with paint, which means the 
waxiness is lower  than stand-alone products.

I sand wood with very coarse paper  before treating and painting - I think 
I used 60 grit. You have to be sure  to follow directions for WRP, really 
focusing on end grain and be sure to  give it ample drying time before 
applying paint.  I used an alkyd  primer followed by two or three latex topcoats.  
I've been sensing  that people are now getting equally good if not better 
results with  latex/latex applications and also that the new primerless 
latexes are very  promising.  We used them on the barn and they are very thick - 
they  are meant to be applied more thickly than conventional paint.

Mill  glaze can mess up a good paint job, and it's not that easy to get rid 
of  it.  Only other thing that messes people up is allowing the wood (or  
primer) to weather before painting.  Even two weeks of exposure to UV  rays 
damages the surface of bare wood causing poor paint adhesion.  You have to 
resand if that happens (reprime also if you had  prematurely primed) .

_http://www.amazon.com/Woodlife-Classic-Wood-Preservative-00903/dp/B000C029T
I_ 
(http://www.amazon.com/Woodlife-Classic-Wood-Preservative-00903/dp/B000C029TI) 

-- 

Cheers,
Garrett

The  Copper & Slate Company, Inc.
Fine Roofing and Exterior Finish  Carpentry
238B Calvary Street, Waltham, MA 02453
(781)  893-1916

What we do:
_http://picasaweb.google.com/copperandslate_ 
(http://picasaweb.google.com/copperandslate) 

Where  we've worked over the years:
_http://maps.google.
com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=206210316541901083869.00049065ef8543e1ef9c3&ll=42.40115,-71.126862&spn=0.125241,0.289421&t=h&z=
12_ 
(http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=206210316541901083869.00049065ef8543e1ef9c3&ll=42.40115,-71.126862&spn=0.125241,0.289421&t=
h&z=12) 

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