[MassHistPres] Fwd: water sealant / primer

Tue Aug 9 13:46:18 EDT 2011

hi earl...
we have abatron in our shop but use it less and less these days...for areas of wood that have dried out resulting in deep open grooves, we apply our oil blend (you said blopentine!...i was kidding when i mentioned registering the name...), allow the sash to sit overnight then fill the voids with a traditional linseed oil glazing putty...the putty remains flexible for many years...since glazing putty does not sand well, we smooth out the putty with a putty knife dipped in turpentine...the repair will not impart a perfectly smooth surface but the repair will be a long lasting one...in our work, we are finding that moisture finds its way behind the epoxy causing further rot until the hunk of putty falls out...we still use epoxy, but on a limited basis...if you choose to use an epoxy, it should be completely set and cured before applying blopentine or other oil to the surrounding areas...

the glazing putty we use is made by a mom and pop outfit in chicago--they have no website and only recently got an email address...it's a pleasure to call and speak with one of the owners when we have questions...the stuff has very few ingredients, mostly boiled linseed oil and calcium carbonate...

if members here would like more information about the products we use, please contact me personally as we don't want this listserv to turn into a marketplace for goods and end up on the wrath side of our dear chris skelly...

best.....
...jade
heartwood window restoration

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ermmwwt at aol.com 
  To: djd184 at verizon.net ; masshistpres at cs.umb.edu 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 11:40 AM
  Subject: Re: [MassHistPres] Fwd: water sealant / primer

  I think I have missed several of the emails in this chain, so please bear with me if I ask a question that has already been answered.

  Some people recommend using a two-part liquid epoxy to strength wood fibers.  Is the Abatron product Liquid Wood acceptable?  And if this products is used, is there a need to then apply the blopentine?

  Earl Taylor
  Dorchester Historical Society

  In a message dated 8/8/2011 10:26:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, djd184 at verizon.net writes:
    I spend many an hour shining the Walnut stock of my .30-06 Springfield with that stuff when I was on the ROTC drill team.  You could see your face in it.   

    it's good for wood gutters too -- altho I've long since given up trying to make them shiny. 

    What brand of oil paint do you recommend?  Has anything actually survived the Calif. regulations?

    Dennis De Witt

    On Aug 8, 2011, at 8:06 PM, heartwood restoration wrote:

      thanks for sharing, garrett...excellent topic!

      we apply a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine to the entire window sash once the paint has been removed...it is one of the most satisfying tasks to introduce this oil to old dried wood especially the end grain...i swear the wood is grateful for the much needed 'drink'...we have not yet registered the name 'blopentine' but that's what we call it around the shop...

      most blo found in hardware and paint stores is treated with metals such as cobalt to acheive the thinning/drying process for raw linseed oil rather than heating it....i have found a gentleman in trumansburg, new york who cleans and heats raw linseed to make the old traditional 'boiled' linseed oil http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/ ...i have found two outfits that sell clear, clean balsam turpentine in PLASTIC containers...http://www.tarsmell.com/turpentine.html andhttp://www.recochem.com/us/index.php/products/solvents/paint_thinner/item/pure_gum_turpentine distributor in toledo, ohio) ...metals tend to deteriorate turpentine and the plastic containers are recyleable...

      boiled linseed oil conditions and consolidates old wood and offers some water repellancy...turpentine has mildewcide and fungicide properties and, at one time, was a popular household topical remedy...we use a penetrating oil primer and prefer oil paints to latex--just not ready to make a wholesale switch to waterbased finishes!!

      thanks again...
      ....jade
      heartwood window restoration
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: Garrett Laws
        To: masshistpres at cs.umb.edu
        Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 11:14 AM
        Subject: [MassHistPres] Fwd: water sealant / primer

        Attached is a recommendation for a "water repellant preservative" I received from a client in Brookline, MA. The National Park Service is supposedly where he discovered it. 

        Trim on the exterior of his house looks NEW (although it is 100+yrs old) after this product, a good primer and then good paint were applied six years ago. 

        Garrett

        ---------- Forwarded message ----------
        Date: Monday, June 20, 2011
        Subject: water sealant / primer
        To: Garrett Laws <copperandslate at gmail.com>

        HI Garrett,

        Water repellent preservative (WRP) undercoating seems to have the best percentage improvement on woods such as fir or pine that don't necessarily take paint very well.  Apparently lots of window mfrs pretreat their products this way.

        Here is a link on Amazon to the product I use.  It is a water repellent preservative that is formulated to be covered with paint, which means the waxiness is lower than stand-alone products.

        I sand wood with very coarse paper before treating and painting - I think I used 60 grit. You have to be sure to follow directions for WRP, really focusing on end grain and be sure to give it ample drying time before applying paint.  I used an alkyd primer followed by two or three latex topcoats.  I've been sensing that people are now getting equally good if not better results with latex/latex applications and also that the new primerless latexes are very promising.  We used them on the barn and they are very thick - they are meant to be applied more thickly than conventional paint.

        Mill glaze can mess up a good paint job, and it's not that easy to get rid of it.  Only other thing that messes people up is allowing the wood (or primer) to weather before painting.  Even two weeks of exposure to UV rays damages the surface of bare wood causing poor paint adhesion.  You have to resand if that happens (reprime also if you had prematurely primed) .

        http://www.amazon.com/Woodlife-Classic-Wood-Preservative-00903/dp/B000C029TI

        -- 

        Cheers,
        Garrett

        The Copper & Slate Company, Inc.
        Fine Roofing and Exterior Finish Carpentry
        238B Calvary Street, Waltham, MA 02453
        (781) 893-1916

        What we do:
        http://picasaweb.google.com/copperandslate

        Where we've worked over the years:
        http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=206210316541901083869.00049065ef8543e1ef9c3&ll=42.40115,-71.126862&spn=0.125241,0.289421&t=h&z=12

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